Pruning mature trees in a semi-dwarf apple orchard
This includes the production of “standard” varieties, such as Delicious, Golden Delicious, York, Rome, etc. Productive semi-dwarf blocks can play an important role in maintaining annual cash flow while older, less profitable blocks are being replaced.
Establishing new orchards requires multiple years of planning to obtain the right trees, establish the canopy, come into production, and generate a positive return on investment. While medium density orchards are no longer recommended, existing semi-dwarf orchards will be in use for some time and must be properly managed for optimal yields of marketable fruit.
Purpose of pruning
Annual pruning and timing
Pruning for light distribution maintenance is an ongoing and cumulative practice that should be done annually. Healthy trees will produce considerable regrowth in a single season, recreating shade. Pruning trees annually is required to avoid corrective pruning, which can result in severe adjustments to the canopy volume.
Pruning can also be done in late autumn after harvest. In late autumn and early winter, the trees are not yet fully acclimated to tolerate cold temperatures. Pruning trees at this time can make them more sensitive to low temperature injury. It is best to wait until the trees have been exposed to freezing temperatures and until the leaves have begun to turn yellow before beginning early dormant pruning. Keep a watchful eye on the long range forecast and suspend pruning when a severe drop in temperature is forecast. Recently pruned trees can be damaged when temperatures suddenly drop 50-60 degrees to 0°F or below. This increased sensitivity is greatest within 48 hours after pruning and gradually declines over a two week period.
The central leader blueprint
Over the past 40 years, the central leader (CL) became the predominant training system for semi-dwarf trees (Figure 1). Central leader training favored good light interception and light distribution, leading to high yields of quality fruit. Two other factors led to the widespread adoption of central leader tree training: it was relatively easy to teach, and was compatible with the natural growth habit of apple tree canopies.
Figure 1. Young Golden Delicious/ M.7 apple tree trained to central leader.
The following are generalized guidelines for pruning to maintain the mature CL apple tree canopy.
Make mostly thinning cuts
A mature semi-dwarf apple tree has greater canopy volume, and more branching than is optimal for fruit color and quality, therefore most pruning cuts should be thinning cuts, which remove the entire branch at its origin (Figure 2). Pruning branches results in a localized stimulation of vegetative regrowth. If a portion of the branch is left, this regrowth is likely to be stronger, because such heading cuts leave buds in close proximity to the localized stimulation.
Figure 2. Thinning cuts remove the entire limb at its origin.
Figure 3. A bench cut is a stubbing cut made on a vigorous upright limb.
Figure 4. Local invigoration of growth resulting from a bench cut.
Figure 5. Excessive growth from a bench cut to vigorous Gala/ M.7 apple trees after two years.
Figure 6. Stubbing back can be done on wide angle limbs to maintain the cone shape of canopy.
Make large cuts first
Large upright limbs compete with the leader. If not removed (Figure 7), the cone shape of the canopy is lost, and with that is lost any hope of good light distribution. Remove limbs that are greater than 1⁄3 the diameter of the leader. Match the tools to the size cuts that are being made. This ensures that one large cut is made when necessary, as opposed to several smaller insufficient cuts to thin the canopy.
Figure 7. Thin vigorous limbs in the top to maintain conical canopy shape.
Select branches based upon branching angle
Leave branches with an angle between 45 and 65 degrees from vertical to achieve a desirable balance of vegetative growth and fruiting. Upright branches are too vegetative and vigorous, while pendant branches are weak and tend to produce small fruit.Start in the top
Sunlight first hits the top of the canopy, and then filters down through. The premise of the CL tree is to allow sufficient sunlight to pass through to illuminate the lowest branches. It follows that if the top is over-grown the rest of the canopy will have insufficient sunlight. One way to focus pruning to address the causes of shade is to start pruning operations in the top.
While pruning the upper canopy, adjust the tree height to the desired level by pruning to a weaker side branch. Tree height should be limited to twice the free alley width. If eight feet of free alley is needed to operate equipment, then 16 feet is the maximum height for that orchard. Should the trees be left taller than 16 feet in this example, cross-row shading will result.
Thin out the remaining branches to create an even distribution of light. This entails removal of otherwise acceptable limbs to eliminate dense areas in the canopy.
Pruning severity
Sometimes the need for corrective pruning arises, due to crop failure or management error. Severe pruning can reduce flowering and yield (by 30% or more), and can stimulate excessive vegetative growth and increase bitter pit. If severe corrective pruning cuts are called for, no more than 1⁄3 of the canopy volume should be removed in a given year. Initial corrective pruning should focus on making a few large cuts, and the remainder of the tree should be thinned out lightly, if at all.
The vigorous regrowth that follows heavy pruning can be managed with two or more applications of prohexadione calcium (Apogee/ Kudos), at moderate-to-high rates. Root pruning is an alternative technique to get long-term control of vigor from severe limb pruning (call or write for details). Summer pruning can be used to remove some of the vigorous shoots that sprout following heavy dormant pruning. Summer pruning can improve red fruit coloration, but will not correct the invigoration of growth or the reduction in flowering that result from such cuts.
Pruning the upside down tree
Some older blocks of large apple trees may not conform to the central leader shape. Some of these were not trained to CL, but instead formed a multi-leader vase- or globe-shaped canopy. Others began as CL trees but large upright scaffolds were not removed. The leader has lost dominance and the result is an inverted cone, or “upside down” tree (Figure 8).
Figure 8. Upside down canopy shape needs corrective pruning.
It may not pay to renovate varieties that don’t require 50% red fruit color to sell. Grannie Smith does well in a multi-leader tree, as do varieties destined for processing. Trees that have only a short-term future needn’t be renovated either. For these situations, make thinning cuts to open the canopy up to sunlight and spray penetration and leave the canopy shape in its present state. One strategy for this type of tree is to prune each large scaffold as if it were a leader.
If the decision is made to renovate the orchard, remove about a third of the excess canopy the first year, focusing on making a few large cuts and with an eye toward restoring the cone shape (Figure 9). Plan on using prohexadione calcium to manage excessive vigor, and on summer pruning to reduce shading from regrowth. The process of recovering the cone shape is continued in the second and third years by thinning out and shaping the canopy with large (saw) and medium (lopper) cuts.
Figure 9. Same tree as in Figure 8 with first year corrective pruning. Several smaller limbs have been left for now and will be thinned out next season.
Another useful system for renovating upside down trees is to convert them to Central Leader-Palmette. In this system the bottom tier of scaffolds is retained, and all major limbs growing perpendicular to the row direction above the bottom tier are removed. This system provides the pruning crew with a quick and unambiguous rule for which branches to remove. It also results in a more favorable distribution of light by creating a narrow tree wall canopy in the top of the tree.
In conclusion
Prune to thin the canopy with as few cuts as possible, remove hangers and risers, stub back to a cone and don’t get carried away!