Oct 30, 2020

Arnie Esterer, pioneer of vinifera wines in Ohio dies at age 88

Arnie [Arnulf] Esterer is the visionary, who in the 1970’s became a disciple of the iconic Konstantin Frank, the Russian immigrant who first planted vinifera grapes in Finger Lakes. Until Frank’s efforts, no one believed quality vinifera could be grown in the cool climate regions of the eastern United States.

After much searching, Arnie found Markko Vineyards in Conneaut and established the winery with his partner Tim Hubbard of Ashtabula. The two had worked together for years and shared a passion for quality wines which could be grown in northeast Ohio.

When Leon Adams, legendary author and one of the early champions of the California industry tasted Arnie’s 1972 Riesling, he was amazed and shared his story in his first edition [1978] of Wines of America. Adams returned to visit Markko several times and recounted his experiences there again in the book.

Arnie was a huge proponent of Lake Erie as a viticultural district and contributed to the Federal application for the AVA [American Viticultural Area] in 1983. Later in that decade, while serving on the OWPA board, Arnie declared at a meeting on South Bass Island, that the Lake Erie Region could produce world class vinifera if our growers committed themselves to the task. Since at that point, nearly all of the vineyards were dominated by Concord and Niagara [native] varieties, his prediction was regarded as ‘pie in the sky’ by most of the board. But he persisted. In the mid 1980’s when Robert Gottesman planted the first vinifera on North Bass Island [Isle St. George], Arnie served as a consultant for the project. In 2014, shortly after the Polar Vortex hit the region’s crop, Dave McIntyre, wine writer for the Washington Post visited to learn about the damage and then to taste Arnie’s Cabernet Sauvignon. His quote in the story published after the visit:

“Who says Ohio cannot produce great reds?”

Over the years, Arnie mentored dozens of young growers and winemakers. He served on the board of the OWPA [Ohio Wine Producers] for several terms and spoke at many industry conferences. However, as the Ohio wine community looks back on the last 30 years, Arnie’s most significant contribution has been his passion for and firm belief in the Lake Erie district as a major player in the world of wine. His early vision did predict the emergence of the area and led the way to what is now truly national recognition as a place which can and does produce world class cool climate wines.